Divundu to Epupa
The route runs alongside the Kunene river most of the way. The river is the border between Namibia and Angola. Our progress was such that we carried on past the original night stop, and ended up in a quaint guesthouse/motel that felt a bit like an African Fawlty Towers. The image was helped by two of the bedroom walls having fallen out with each other, letting daylight through! But the food was very good!
Fuel again came into question when our planned fuel stop turned out to be empty, many miles from any other. This was in the knowledge that we were then about 400 kms from the next pump, along dirt roads of unknown quality. So glad of our jerry cans!
Kunene River Lodge is built right on the riverbank, and is superb. Quite remote, the notes on the map state the track takes two days to traverse, and not to take a trailer. But thankfully our local advice was that it had since been upgraded. Looking at the sections of the old track, one could see why it would previously have taken so long.
That leads to a word on driving on these dirt roads. Care has to be taken as grip cannot be assured. Everything must be done gently, eg, accelerating, cornering and braking. And cars raise huge dust clouds, often visible for a mile of more after the car. And when you see another car coming the other way, slow down, put all windows up and keep to the side of the road. If there are pedestrians, it is kind to slow right down to an absolute crawl to minimise their discomfort.
Local young men of the Himba tribe.
On our first night, we woke to find the power was off, not really a problem other than the fridge switches off after a while. But the shock was to find the plug pulled out and a very dead monkey next to it. However its injuries were apparently due to a fight it had had the day before.
The Lodge sadly suffers from river flooding, and is being relocated higher up. A shame as it will probably take away the very special nature of the campsite.
The waterfalls for which Epupa is famous are spectacular, and need to be photographed at sunrise or sunset.Â
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