The tar road only continues for a short distance beyond the town, before getting downgraded to a dirt road. The first task is to lower tyre pressures to reduce the risk of punctures and to try and make the journey less unpleasant. For the major problem is that dirt roads get corrugated, from minor irritation to major challenge. You are constantly trying to pick out the least ridged sections, and to find the least uncomfortable speed to travel at. Theoretically, you might be able to just speed and have the car float on the tops, but with the bigger corrugations, you are reduced to a mind-numbing crawl whilst big trucks pass you with great clouds of sand trailing behind them.

After several hours, you arrive at South Gate, the entrance to the Moremi reserve. It is rare in that the local community controls the land. It was actually a late chief’s wife who established it. Rather than nomadic or subsistence farming, she set about building a revenue stream from visitors eager to see the amazing wildlife.

The camp was a bit of a surprise. Having been there a few years back, the neglect during the pandemic was evident. Having signed the obligatory liability waiver, we were then told of a rogue elephant that had been attacking cars at the site! And then there was a huge troop of baboons rampaging through. You could not leave so much as a teaspoon out. I won’t bore you with the story as to why we ended up in permanent tented accommodation, but it was very welcome and more restful!