Khwai
Kwai is situated towards the northern part of the Okavango, and is another substantial conservancy run by the local community. It is very flat, and is effectively bordered on two sides by a river. It was a bit of a task firstly finding our campsite, only to find it already occupied. Then finding the hut that was the office. They didn’t sort the problem, as clearly they had double-booked, but the pitch was big and both parties were happy to share the site, fire and beers!
In truth, we managed to see lions, leopard, hippos, elephants, springbok, impala, crocodiles, mongooses and a lone wild dog. Oh, and quite a few tourists! Some of the latter had less sense of self-preservation than the former, not least by trying to drive their rented 4x4s across the river in the absence of any established crossing!
But after two nights, we left to travel north towards the Namibian border, and encountered the roughest tracks so far. No sooner had we turned back onto the main dirt road than we saw a pair of hyenas just lying on it ahead of us. Crawling slowly up, there was a pack of them just by the side of the road enjoying a breakfast of some unlucky antelope.
Freebooter 