Life & Travels Afloat in our Moody
Part of the southern Grenadines, Carriacou is a small delightful island that is free of overt colonial influence. Very Caribbean, it’s people are so friendly and welcoming. (Memory of the rum punch at Iguana now having faded!)
Most sailors head for Tyrrel Bay, a large sheltered anchorage with a few shops and more bars/restaurants. Being only a few miles long, it prides itself on having over 100 rum shops but only one petrol station! The main town, (bit of an exaggeration really) is Hillsborough. So far we have only been through it in a minibus to attend church ( bailed out after 2 1/2 hours to avoid missing our transport), and to have lunch at the delightful Round House at Bogles. Excellent fare albeit at above average prices.
But aside from rum and food, there are some other great reasons to come sailing here. With numerous sheltered anchorages, one can hide behind small islands of rock or sand, the ubiquitously named Sandy Island being a favourite. This tiny streak of sand and coral is both picturesque and a great place to snorkel.
Life attaches very quickly here. This tiny fish decided to adopt our swim ladder as its home, and was there every time we jumped in the water. It even return after we motored round to Sandy Island for the day!
At the other end of the island, there is the aptly named village of Windward. Most travel here by road, but we inched our way into the shallow lagoon to anchor in the brilliant turquoise waters of Watering Bay, noting the example of poor navigation on the reef entrance!
Very different to other places we have visited, (only one bar open, no food available), it is not a tourist destination. But it hides one major talent, boat-building. No small of fibreglass here, but hewn local timbers shaped with classic tools to form beautiful sailing vessels for fishing, or more commonly now for racing. Only the fastenings are imported!
Sailing back along the Atlantic side of the island, you need to stay well off it’s coast, strewn as it is with rocks and reefs. As we turned west at the bottom of the island, we noticed one rock not far off our course just proud of the water. Re-checking the chart, it is marked, but easily confused with a fly speck! Keep vigilant round here!