Standing on the top of tiny Mayreau by the little church, one can look out over Union Island and Tobago Cays, our last stops. Union Island is not as small as this one, and most visitors will only see the main village, Clifton. It is a slightly twee place for tourists, and for the more authentic version, go to Ashton, a brief minibus ride away.
Anchoring off Frigate Island, a large rock just about connected to Union, Ashton is the nearest place to land. The smaller the island the friendlier people are, it seems, and the more keen to pass the time of day with you.
Around the corner is Chatham Bay, a glorious curving bay with pristine sands and a few ramshackle beach bars. But don’t let that put you off for their owners are great people, from Pleasure and his guitar, to Vanessa and her jewellery to Tim and his food. Union is an island we look forward to returning to.
It is only a short hop to Tobago Cays, the place to head for snorkelling and turtles. A couple of days here in the warm azure waters is magic therapy, despite the number of boats. It was surprisingly also where we bought the best baguettes in the Caribbean so far, off Mr Quality in his roaming shop. (Ok, we also had to buy some proper Felix T-shirts as well, a well-known local artist).
The character in Mayreau has to be Denis! Beguiling us into spending hours in his bar talking about the world, time just slipped by us, but not before we booked for supper the next night. It is the sort of place you just meet people from all over.
Seasonal customs here may be harder to take. For the 9 mornings of Christmas, the music and party STARTS at 03.00! Christmas Day apparently is a tour of the houses on the island, taking a drink at each. Not our way of celebration, but each to our own. Time to move on methinks…..